Sunday - Is it only day 2???

After a slower start due to the need to keep people up to date via a blog post, I headed off to Christiansborg Palace which was duly impressive in its commanding facade and formal reception rooms. The really interesting bits were the missing palaces and other castles that were torn down or burned. The current Palace is the third one, built in 1907 after the previous one burned down in the 1880s. Both the one that burned down in the 1790s, before they had finished decorating, and the later one seemed to be victims of clogged flues. While the 1880s casualty had fire doors etc, apparently the fire brigade didn't know how to use them.

The Great Hall has modern colourful tapestries depicting Danish history.

Now, that's a library

When they built the most recent palace, they found traces of the earlier buildings. People were fascinated and the government decided to keep them for viewing - a pretty enlightened approach for the time, I think. They were quite fascinating, especially the medieval poop shutes and wells still with water, but it goes for quite a long, dark, low-ceilinged, winding way and I was quite happy to get to the end as I was a bit turned around and discombobulated.

Went to 'Wok On' for lunch across from the palace near the statue of the bishop who built the first castle on the site in the 12th century. Do not, if in Copenhagen, arrange to meet 'near the bronze statue of the guy on a horse'. They are everywhere. The bishop was literally a Christian soldier, fighting and burning pagan settlements.

Glad to see punny naming continues across the globe. Forgot I had chahan at wagamama at tivolis last night and ordered brown fried rice - tastier and half the price. But no more rice for a while.

Visited the Palace stables and viewed the state coaches. The stables are a relic from the 18th century and feature marble pillars. The 14 horses are in nice digs, especially as they now have modified stalls that allow them freedom of movement - the original stalls were half the size and had the horses tied.

The horses' palace

Moved onto the Danish Design Museum. I didn't end up taking any photos except of the lamp I covet. Just about every iconic Danish chair was represented and the exhibitions had some beautiful things, including delicate glassware and beautifully crafted cabinetry, but I was expecting a bigger collection and there was not much contemporary design represented. My favourite section was the art nouveau. There were just some sublime pieces there.

On, then, to the Kastellet, which is a fort and barracks established in the 17th century that is still in use. It is within star-shaped ramparts and the setting is lovely. There is also a windmill.

The moat and ramparts of the Kastellet

In the park leading to the Kastellet

The King's Park

Hans Christian A in the King's Park

 

Then, because it is me and I'll sightsee till I drop, onto the Round Tower, in which there was an exhibition on the history of tattooing in the city. The tower has a cobbled ramp up most of the way to the top, with a narrow twisted set of stairs just at the very top.

On the way up in the Round Tower

Part of the view from the Tower

A weary but satisfied walk through light rain on the shiny cobblestones back to the hotel for a rest up before tomorrow's excursion out of the city.

Day 1 Supplementary

I have been taking many, many photos, so selected a few to expand on the narrative of day one.

It was a windy, overcast start to a day that turned out much better. This is one of the several 'lakes' that ring the city to the north. A few white swans were about as well as seagulls and a duck family.

Marquetry and lapidary work seem to have been the rage at one time as there were many amazing examples of intricate designs at Rosenborg.

The rooms displaying porcelain and glass were absolutely amazing. The pieces were arranged all over the walls in patterns. The pictured set are of the plants of Denmark, a famous set that shows plants at life size. If they didn't fit on the plate, the artist cut the plant or twisted it to fit.

 One of the crowns in the treasury at Rosenborg. Not the main one but I think the prettiest. Apparently they don't crown with crowns any more in Denmark and only use the crowns at funerals.

The coronation thrones with one of the three silver lions guarding it at Rosenborg. The monarch's is the white one with narwhal horns.

 The modesty fig leaves from Amalienborg (see previous post)

Manic sightseeing mode - Friday, Saturday

Friday I had a bit of a walk around after a trying 24 hours of travel, knocking over several bikes at Copenhagen Central Station (parked, not with anyone on them) and realising I'm going to have to buy a new suitcase after having to get a taxi 300 metres because I physically couldn't get there with my luggage. Not because of weight, but because it is a useless piece of junk, mentally kicking it. The hotel staff are friendly and I am happy with my room tucked up under the roof (except it has a (locked) door between it and the next room so hoping for good neighbours.) I look out onto a sort of 6-storey courtyard with residences opposite and I noticed today that I can also see the top of the Tivoli vertical drop ride as well.

A broken night of sleep is rescued by a very good breakfast and off I go. OK, so I tend to go all out when I travel, so buying a ticket with access to 74 attractions is just asking for trouble. Saturday walked around the 'lakes' to 400 year old Rosenberg Castle and the crown jewels, two thumbs up and a yay! nice one! Then on to Amalienborg Museum (half a thumb and a meh!) that covers some of the latter generations of the royal family with rooms preserved as they had them. They loved their photographs, with most surfaces covered with them. I liked that the Queen's gothic library had brown linoleum because at the time it was very modern and exclusive. Another tickler was the assortment of golden fig leaves that they used as modesty veils on the gilded naked male table-decoration statues. Amalienborg Square, with a view of the cathedral and the new opera house opposite, was suitably impressive.

Rosenberg

After that wandered past the famous coloured buildings with thousands of people and off on a Canal tour, which was another two thumbs up and a 'wow, neato!' as we covered parts of old and new Copenhagen in a blessedly seated position.

 Most shared view of Copenhagen, chockas with people

Mast raiser - oldest wooden construction in Copenhagen - I think: the guide was a bit garbled, talking fast to say the same thing three times in Danish, English and German

On one of the bridges we passed under

After a warming shower (14 degrees tops and windy most of the day), I went to Tivoli around 8pm with the sun still shining. At the gate, the girl said, 'We have fireworks tonight!', 'When are they?' I asked. '11.45pm.' Didn't quite stay that long, but arrived back to the hotel at about 10.30 pm after a magical wander, fortified by jumper and scarf. The flowers are quite amazing and the transition through sunset to twilight and dark as the illuminations come on was lovely. Two thumbs and an air punch - not dented in any way by being shat on from a great height as I passed under a tree. Third shower for the day and bed.

Two more sleeps

Till off to Denmark and Sweden!